Crudo. Raw. Rather than cooking, this fish is transformed by a highly concentrated salt brine and a large surface area to volume ratio, which allows it to cure quickly all the way through, concentrating flavor and firming up texture. I’ll be honest, this fish shines on its own. Glowing and translucent, a jewel like this…
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Ramenized Spaghetti with Miso Spinach Pesto
I’ve made variations on a traditional basil pesto before, but this one is a game changer. It makes a vibrant statement in appearance, flavor, and texture. It doesn’t feel like a minor adaptation, it’s a whole other animal while still playing the same role. The pesto manages to be both light enough for summer and…
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8/21/17 – Ten+ Years of Pizza Spice Palimpsest
This was a monumental day – the breathtaking total solar eclipse over North America marked the passage of time with an extraordinary syzygy of celestial bodies. Yet today also marks the passage of my personal time through seemingly expired pizza spice. Bear with me here… Pizza in Israel is like nowhere else. First of all,…
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Farewell, Pardes: A Peek Inside
Yesterday Pardes announced the final closing of its doors after six years upending assumptions and expectations of kosher dining. Thankfully, its influence on progressive and seasonal kosher cooking will be felt for a long time to come. I’ve only dined at Pardes twice, but it’s affected me like no other kosher restaurant. Of course the…
